This pattern has several scoring lines. Because of this it is best to keep
this pattern on standard copy paper. To use this pattern repeatedly just make copies on several sheets of copy paper then
when you are ready to make your project you can use repositionable glue and stick it to a piece of
cardstock.
Once the pattern is temporally glued in place score all the dashed fold lines (see Pic.1 ). You will also need to score the
curved lines where you see the pinking tabs (see Pic.2 ). When you are doing a box that has a curved corners you need lots
of little tab if you want the curve to be smooth. Now you want to start cutting it out. Cut the curved lines (with no pinked
edges). Fold the front section back (see Pic.3 ) so you can use pinking shears to cut the other curved lines.
If you have no pinking shears then you can use regular scissors to cut each peak but the pinking shears make it easier
(see Pic.4 ). Make sure you do not cut the section of paper off that is between the front and side of the box (see Pic.5 ).
Finish cutting out the box and the lid. Cut the x inside the small square on the lid (see Pic.6 ) Now you can get your
scissors in there to cut the little square out. Remove the glued on pattern wipe with a dryer sheet to remove any left over
residue from the glue and your ready to stamp. Stamp as desired. I used #121 Floral Flourish and #614 Apple Blossom in "
It Will Grow On You " category of my catalog. Make sure you stamp on the side with no printed lines except on the bottom
of the box lid section. Because the lid is glued to that section and when you open the box it will show.
Crease all the
fold lines. Here is a little trick for getting the curved lines smooth. Hold the edge of a spoon against the edge peaked
edges. Slip your fingernail under the cardstock and crease the paper against the edge of the spoon as you see in picture 7.
by folding one direction and then the other until it will bend smoothly. Make sure you bend each little peak
these will be used as gluing tabs. Time to glue it all together. I use the new quick dry tacky glue (the one in the
silver bottle. Put glue all along one side where you have the peaked tabs. Bend it around and glue to the other corner (see
Pic.8,) If you are having trouble getting it to come directly to the edge, after the glue starts to tack up you can use
your thumbnail to slide it to the edge. Do this on all four corners.
To glue the lid, put glue on the tabs, stick your finger through the square hole and press the tabs together forming a
pyramid. Glue the pyramid to the top of the lid flap on the box. At this point there are a few problems we need to address.
If you look inside the box it look ugly. You can see the peaked edges glued down lines. And the lid will not stay down
good. To solve this we are going to line the box and add a latch. First I punch a piece of one side of a Velcro
stick dot with my hole punch. Then I cut a strip out of the other side. Pull the backing off of the strip and stick
it to a piece of paper and cut out. We do not want it to be sticky (see Pic.10) because the fuzzy side is going to be
glued to the front facing out. Because of this I also trim off a some of the fuzzy on the bottom half of the strip to
decrease bulk. Glue the strip to the inside front of the box and stick the sticky dot on it. Do not remove the backing
on the dot yet. We do want that to be sticky in a bit.
For the lining I use a paper doily but you can use tissue. Stuff the doily or tissue in the box and cut it off about ¼ inch
above the top edge of the box (see Pic.11). Now remove the doily or tissue and fold over the ¼ inch (see Pic.12) and scrunch
it up along the edge (see Pic.13). Put some glue all around the inside top edge of the box. Stuff the doily or tissue back
in and glue it to the top edge gathering the edge as you work your way around the top (see Pic.14).
Remove the backing off the sticky dot and close the box. It will stick to the lid and hold it closed. If you like you can
glue beads on for feet and I like to add one to the top too! (See Pic.15)
